SAFETY SWITCH BYPASS:
picture above shows the wiring connector for the clutch safety
switch. The connector and jumped wires are circled in red, the
blue arrow points to the body of the connector.
The wiring connector
for the clutch safety switch is located behind a black protective
box located under the instrument cluster behind the fairing. There
are three wires wrapped in black tape running from the clutch
switch to the connector, which fits in a mass connector plate
to the left (shifter) side of all the others. The connector body
Unplug the connector
from either side of the plate, and pull the two ends out into
the open. There are two striped wires, and one solid wire that
continue on to the main wiring harness.
I used a very fine
bladed screwdriver to reach up into the connectors and release
the tabs that was holding the "spades" in place. Do
this for the STRIPED WIRES, as these are the ones that
need to be jumped for the circuit to work.
I used tiny female
spades, (available at the dealer), and made a jumper using 14
gauge wire, as shown in the picture above. Put a dab of di-electric
grease (silicone) on everything. I left the solid wire in the
connector body, and set it back up in the connector plate. I used
heatshrink tubing on the jumpered striped wires, and wrapped them
in black 3M electrical tape, securing them to the rest of the
Now, check to see
that the neutral light works, and that the bike will start with
the clutch lever out and the KLR in neutral.
Button things up,
and move on to the next step, if you wish. You can do one or both
of these bypasses - but you don't have to do both for either one
to work. There are circumstances that the sidestand bypass would
be a good thing, but the clutch - IMHO - is the more "important"
of the two because the safety switch WILL eventually fail.