Mark's KLR650
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DECALIFORNICATION OF A
KLR |
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Full credit and thanks for this
information goes to Scott of Sorrento, (aka Thunderdog), who took the
time to write it up, take the pictures and Email them to me for posting. |
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Scott's
Disclaimer: I'm not a California resident. In 2000, I got a great
deal on a cherry (California model) A14 from a Powersports dealer here
in Florida. |
Initially,
I'd no intention of removing the KLR's Evaporative Emission Control
System. It doesn't weigh much, and seemed to have zero effect on performance.
Zero effect until one sunny day, a valve within the system (don't know
what this valve's called..we'll call it the "buzzkiller valve"
for now) got clogged (after 13k miles) and stranded me at the intersection
of Mayhem & Chaos during rush hour. (it just died, showing symptoms
of fuel starvation) The KLR had never stranded me before, so this was
the fatal mistake for Buzzkiller & his assembly. |
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First off,
there's a complete diagram of the Evaporative Emission Control System
hose routing, in your owners manual. Have this handy as you read this
story. The vacuum hoses are color coded. NOTE: The diagram has
been scanned and added directly beneath this text. |
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NOTE:
You'll want some rubber vacuum hose caps. I bought an assortment pack
at a local auto parts store for 2 bucks. |
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First, remove both side panels
to remove the seat. |
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Next, as seen in Picture1 above,
remove the emissions canister in the rear. There are (2) lines.. (1 blue,
1 green) that go to this canister. Blue to the return pump, and green
goes to the airbox. Unplug both of the lines from the canister. The blue
line you can toss or save for later applications. The green line to the
airbox needs to be trimmed close to the airbox then plugged (with your
handy hose caps.) |
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Picture2 above - It's a good idea
to save everything in the case that you ever sell the bike in California. |
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Now remove the return pump from
its bracket. I cut off the part of the bracket that actually held the
pump, (piece seen in Picture2), in place. Then file smooth the rough edge
on the remaining part of the bracket that's still attached to the frame. |
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Picture3 above. Now you've got
red, white & blue lines dangling from where the return pump used to
be. The blue line from the gas tank vents to atmosphere, I tie wrapped
that one to the frame, it's likely best to run it down in front of the
rear tire with the other hoses.
The red line from the gas tank needs to be trimmed/capped, as does the
white line coming from the bottom of the return pump, as seen in Picture3
above.
I read a post by "CA (emissions fell off officer) Stu" that
recommended replacing this "T" that you end up with, by using
(1) line so that the petcock vacuum line goes directly to the carb. This
is a really good idea, it was getting really late, I just capped off the
"T". |
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That's it! And now you have an
empty mounting bracket with cover, for storage purposes. |
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Picture4 above. I used the existing
emissions box mounting bracket / hardware / cover, to house a home
made, (el cheapo grande), first aid kit. Using the existing emissions
canister cover keeps things looking nice & stock. |
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The kit itself is housed in an
old Excedrin bottle. A jumbo, (275 count), bottle. (Yea, the days of MX
have left me an aspirin junkie.) |
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Picture5 above shows the contents
of the kit: |
- Cleansing wipes
- Antibiotic Ointment
- Elastic bandage
- Gauze Pads
- Band Aids
- Small lockback knife (sharp)
- Aspirin
- Eyedrops |
There's actually room for alot
more stuff. The bottle's just half full. I plan on adding more disinfectant
type stuff as I find it. For now, I stuffed some napkins in there for
a tight fit. The bottle's been waterproof so far. |
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Bam! That's it! Go riding with
no fear of "Emissions Control" grounding you, as mine did. -Scott |