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Parts. 3 pressure treated 2x4's,
4 strap braces (Home Depot / Simpson LSTA9), 1 45 degree brace (Home
Depot / Simpson A33), galvanized course thread deck screws, and a couple
strips of rubber for the tops of the uprights. |
Cut the two upright
pieces 13 inches long, with about a 12 degree angle on one end. The other
end is cut square. The uprights will actually measure 13" at the
high end of the angle, and about 12" at the low end. |
Cut
the arms of the lift about 44 inches long.
(The longer they are, the easier it will be to lift the bike.) |
Cut a piece of 5/8" decking
lumber to 11 3/4" long. This will provide a brace behind the uprights
that will not interfere with tire removal. |
Cut a piece of 2x4 to 11 3/4"
long. This will provide a central brace. |
Cut a piece of 2x4 to 11 3/4"
long. This will be the back end of the lift. |
Optional. You can see
best in the top picture that there are grab handles. Cut these at whatever
length is best for you, (mine is 15" on the side, and the one on
the end is about 14 3/4") |
Assembly. Lay
out the pieces in the form they'll eventually take. |
The two arms will stand on their
edges. |
The uprights stand 1" back
from the end of the arms, and inside. (This puts
them at 10 1/2" on center, which will place the swingarm ends dead
center when the bike is lifted.) |
The 5/8" decking brace is
14 3/4" from the arm (upright) ends, and lays flat
inside the arms so as to not interfere with tire removal. |
The center 2x4 brace is 24 1/4"
from the arm (upright) ends, and inside the arms. |
The end 2x4 brace is fitted inside
the arms. |
NOTE: You'll avoid splitting the ends
of the 2x4 arms if you pre-drill for the end brace. |
Starting from the back and working
forward: |
Screw the end brace to the arms |
You now have a huge "U"
shape. Measure diagonally from the front end of one arm to the back end
of the opposite arm to make sure the, and then reverse, to make sure everything
is square - not "racked." |
Screw the center brace to the
arms |
Screw the 5/8" decking brace
to the arms |
Screw the uprights to the arms.
(I used 4 screws on one side, and 2 on the other) |
Reference the middle picture.
Attach the straps, one on each side, to the uprights and the arms with
one screw in the end of the strap. Once both ends are
secured with screws, put more screws further in, which will tighten up
the strap. (I think all this is necessary because it's these uprights
that first do the lifting, and then support the bike, you can't be too
careful.) |
The middle and lower pictures
show strips of metal on the back, lower end of the upright angle. Cut
the 45 degree bracket in half, and screw one each to the back of the upright,
1/4" above the 2x4. They should be bent slightly forward to miss
the end bolts, (if you cut the bracket dead-center in the bend will be
all set as is.) These prevent the bike from sliding too far back, (which
isn't likely.) |
Glue and tack the rubber strips
to the tops of the 2x4 uprights. |
NOTE: This isn't absolutely necessary,
but to use the lift, I recommend that you place a 2x4 block under the
kickstand to get the bike as evenly upright as possible. Then, position
the lift uprights about halfway under the swingarm ends and push down
the back of the lift. This is a very fast and easy way to get the chain
oiled! |
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I realized that if there was vigerous work to
be done on the bike while on this lift, it probably wouldn't be as stable
as it should be. To improve the situation, I screwed a heavy-duty eyebolt
(shown above) on both sides of the lift where
the "arm" meets the upright support. |
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As shown above, I just run ratchet ties from the
eyebolts to the bottom of the passenger grab handle. You can even put
a weight on the end of the lift, if you want. |
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