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This Oil Screen Cleaning procedure is initially based on the Water Pump Seals procedure done by MarkB, and hosted on this website here. This procedure specifies only the steps needed to accomplish the screen cleaning.

Using care, I did NOT need to replace either cover gasket. The seals aren't messed with when simply doing an oil screen cleaning, so will be fine. If the seals are leaking, the information on how to deal with that problem can be found in the water pump seals procedure.

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3. By now, the coolant should be at a manageable temperature. As shown above, drain the coolant by opening the radiator cap, and removing the small drain bolt at the bottom of the water pump housing.

Loosen the two hose clamps at the water pump, and pull them off one at a time - keeping a container available to catch the old coolant.

As long as you've drained most of the coolant anyway, I'd suggest that you remove one or both of the hoses at the coolant bottle and drain that, too.

Inspect your hoses to see if they should be replaced. Stock Kawasaki hoses are expensive, but you can get a Goodyear #63936 heater hose, and cut it to the correct sizes.

4. The pictures above show that the footpeg and brake lever need to be removed to gain the necessary clearance for the side cover to come off.

- Remove the footpeg bolts

- Remove the brake lever bolt and pin. The bolt is indicated in the top picture with a white arrow, and the pin by a yellow arrow in the bottom picture.

- Remove the spring from the brake lever, indicated by the red arrow in the bottom picture.

6. As shown above, remove the water pump housing. The bolt on the upper right, at the outlet marked "To Cyl" is the longer of the 3 bolts used here.

The housing should come off pretty easily. DON'T pry at it if you have trouble. Instead, try tapping around its perimeter as much as possible with a rubber mallet. Then just try gently rocking it off.

7. The two pictures above show that the impeller is next to be taken off. Brute force is not necessary here, and would be one of the very bad places to employ it. You don't want to break that shaft.

The impeller bolt is installed using 9.8n-m / 87in-lbs / 7.25ft-lbs. That's not much, but IS enough to spin the shaft when trying to remove the nut. I used a very heavy duty screwdriver blade in the oil fill hole to catch a meaty "tab" of the clutch basket. I used this method to remove and install the bolt, and it worked quite well.

On this side of the impeller, you'll have a washer and nut. Note that the gasket is in good shape.

8. As shown above, it's now time to remove the side cover. There are 15 bolts, the single longer one is to the left, or rear, of the oil filter cover. Remove all the bolts and set them aside.

Now, with all the bolts removed, tap around the cover with a rubber mallet. You're going to have to work at this a bit, it didn't come off as easily as I thought it would. I finally got some response when I put a finger into the oil fill hole, and rocked back and forth. Once the cover begins to come loose, try to work it evenly here and there to protect the gasket from damage.

Once the cover is ready to come off, it will slide right over the impeller shaft. Don't mess with the seal there, it doesn't need any attention unless you're fixing a leak. And if you ARE, you need to reference the Water Pump Seals procedure.

That's about it. Clean the excess oil from the mating surfaces of the cover and engine.

Clean the oil screen and put it back into place in the hole, as shown in previous pictures. The screen goes INTO the engine, with the rubber end closest to you.

Once the case is reinstalled, you can reinstall the impeller, making sure that all washers are where they should be. Gently work the impeller over the shaft, as was done for the removal.

NOTE: watch the position of the clutch actuator shaft as you reinstall the case. You may have to lift or slightly twist it back and forth in order for the cover to seat correctly. The swivelling head of the actuator should be pointing more or less straight toward the left side of the bike.

Iif you find it's necessary - as I did - use a heavy screwdriver in the oil fill hole to keep the shaft from spinning, and install the impeller nut at 9.8n-m / 87in-lbs / 7.25ft-lbs.