Mark's KLR650
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DASH
INSTALLATION OF A 12 VOLT WATERPROOF OUTLET |
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There
are a number of uses for an outlet like this; GPS, air compressor,
cell phone charger, etc. I installed the outlet in a way that
works best for me. As is the case with all the procedures here,
you can do it my way, or you can use this information to guide
you on your own path. |
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The
diagram and picture above should help you to correctly wire
the components. I wanted my outlet mounted up behind the fairing
for some extra protection and for convenience. It comes with
a bracket that would allow you to mount the outlet pretty much
anywhere.
The
outlet required a 1 3/32" hole, which I was able to easily
drill with a borrowed unibit. If you decide to use a switch
and indicator light as I've done, the size of the holes will
depend on the size of the switch and light bodies.
I
used a dremel with a cutting wheel to make the small notch that's
required for the placement tab on the side of the outlet. You
can just make it out on the right side of the outlet, down at
the dash.
I
used a sticky plastic base with the tab that's meant for a zip-tie
to hold the wiring in place at the switch.
I
used 12 gauge stranded wire that I had on hand, but you can
safely use 14 gauge.
Here's
the basic story
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Run a positive (+)
wire back to Tammy's Accessory
Fuse Kit, or to the battery. If you go to the battery,
you'll have to add an inline fuse. The instructions that came
with the Arrowhead waterproof 12v outlet suggest a 10amp fuse. |
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Run a negative (-)
wire to a good ground of your choice. The image above shows,
in the yellow circle, that I've got the ground from that bolt
going into the frame.
I
stretched out both the positive and negative wires, wrapped
them in good quality 3M electrical tape and ran them back to
this location under the saddle. I'm using Tammy's
Accessory Fuse Kit so all I had to do was bolt
down the negative wire, and plug in the positive.
Don't
actually make the final connections at the accessory plug or
battery until you're done with all the wiring.
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The
picture above gives an idea of what you should have, pretty much
whether you choose a dash or bracket mount of the outlet. I used
removable connectors so that the dash & outlet could easily
be removed, if necessary. |
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The incoming positive (+) wire goes to one terminal
on the switch. |
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The incoming negative (-) wire needs to ground
both the negative side of the outlet and the negative side of
the light.
I
soldered together a Y shaped wire connector,
as shown in the picture under the diagram. I put connectors
on all three ends, connected the "leg" of the Y
to the incoming negative wire, and the two other ends to the
light negative and outlet negative.
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A positive (+) wire now needs to come from
the remaining terminal on the switch to the positive side of
the outlet, and the positive side of the light.
I
used a 1-into-2 connector on the positive (+)
terminal of the outlet. The positive wire comes from the switch
to one side of the 1-into-2 connector on the outlet, and the
other side goes to the positive on the light.
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Make
the final connections for ground and/or power, and you should
be good to go. |
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The
above picture shows the finished installation. Green means go!
The
Big Cee minidash was a perfect fit with the stock windscreen,
but needed tweaking to work with my Clearview 11+.
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